Spourtiko is a rare white grape indigenous to the island of Cyprus. Its name translates to ‘bursting’. This is due to the grape’s thin, delicate skin that can crack. Just as its skin is delicate, so are its fresh, citrus and floral notes. However, it is often overshadowed by other local grape varieties. It is commonly interspersed in vineyards with Maratheftiko vines to increase the rate of pollination. This would also lead to it being used to make blended wines. Very few producers make varietal wines with the grape but as it gains recognition, plantings have started to increase.
During the recent Greek tasting, I tried a 2023 Makarounas Spourtiko. This wine is 100% Spourtiko that is grown on a soil of crystal gypsum and limestone. The importer passed around a piece of this soil for us to see (and lick…if we were brave). As noted above, these grapes are planted with Maratheftiko on ungrafted 10-30 year old vines. The soil composition does not readily allow for phylloxera so vines can be grown on their own rootstock. This wine was a pale lemon color with aromas of honeysuckle, honey, almonds, lime, and saline. On the palate, this dry, low alcohol wine had a surprisingly crisp flavor that was quite different from the sweeter notes on the nose. The wine spends some time in contact with lees to increase the texture to a medium body and help balance the high acidity. The citrus notes are combined with peaches then they give way to a slight pithy bitterness on the extended finish. This wine was very refreshing and enjoyable. I would pair it with fresh light seafood, spanakopita, or a greek salad on a warm summer evening!
-TheLooseTannin
A Trip Around the World of Wine in 52 Weeks 