Valpolicella is a blended red wine from the Veneto region of northeastern Italy. The primary grapes used in the blend are Corvina and Corvinone (making up 45-95% of the blend). Corvina is preferred by some producers because the grapes ripen more evenly. This decreases the labor costs needed for harvesting. If grapes are ripening unevenly, vineyard workers must make multiple passes thru the vineyard to ensure they’re harvesting ripe grapes. Corvinone is used in blends for its tannins so if the grapes are unripe, the tannins can be green, harsh and astringent in the final wine. There can also be small amounts of Molinara and Rondinella in the blend. Molinara is used to add color, acid, and red fruit to wines. Rondinella is used for wines with higher levels of residual sugar due to its ability to reach high levels of sugar quickly during the ripening process and can account for 5-30% of the final wine. In order for a wine to be labeled as Valpolicella, the grapes must be grown in the area defined by wine law. There are a few types of Valpolicella but to decrease confusion, I will discuss three that are all very similar. First is Valpolicella DOC. The grapes can be harvested from the larger geographically defined area. This wine has the highest allowed grape yield which results in wines with lower flavor concentration. These tend to be inexpensive and intended for early consumption. The next level is Valpolicella DOC Classico. The grapes for this level are grown in the historically defined Classico area and usually on hills where yields are naturally limited. The wines are more concentrated and the quality is improved. Wines at this level are still reasonably priced. The highest level is Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore. The wines at this level are required to undergo a one year aging process. This results in increased costs incurred so the price of these bottles is a little higher. Valpolicella production has been decreasing due to market trends that favor other styles than listed here with higher levels of sugar or alcohol. Grape growers can sell their grapes for a higher price to producers of these other styles, so many have chosen this option.
This week, I drank a 2019 Tommasi Rafaèl Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore. The blend for this wine is Corvina (60%), Rondinella (25%) and Molinara (15%). Rafaèl refers to the name of the vineyard, which is located in the Valpolicella Classico area. It was the first vineyard planted by the founder Giacomo Tommasi. Vines are currently 30 years of age or older. The family has been making wine since 1902 and is now in its fourth generation. My glass of Valpolicella is medium ruby. It has aromas of ripe red cherries, cranberries, red currants, dried roses, and vanilla. On the palate, this fuller bodied dry wine has a moderate level of alcohol, refreshing acidity, and light smooth tannins. The ripe red fruit is bright and fresh. The fruit notes slowly fade on the prolonged finish. This would be a great wine to serve with a holiday charcuterie platter, beef roasts, or lighter meats like pork and turkey.
-TheLooseTannin
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