January 17th-White Port

Port wines are fortified wines from the Douro region in northern Portugal. Vineyards are found along the banks of the Douro River in one of three subregions. The coolest climate and most affected by maritime influences of the Atlantic Ocean is the Baixo Corgo. Slightly further inland is the warmer and drier subregion of Cima Corgo. The hottest, driest and most westerly is Douro Superior. Despite being generally categorized by these subregions, there is a vast variation in microclimates. This wide range can be attributed to factors such as the steepness of slopes, vineyard aspect, and proximity to the River Douro. White port is most commonly made from blends containing Malvasia Fina and Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains (known as Moscatel Galego Branco in Portugal). Malvasia is a neutral wine with a moderate level of acidity. Muscat is aromatic and typically used in unaged white ports. White ports can come in a wide range of styles, with some being fruity and fresh all the way to aged with honey and nut notes. White ports can be labeled with the term Reserve or with indications of age (10, 20, 30, etc) similar to the same terms used for the more well known Tawny Ports. 

This week, I drank a non-vintage Cockburn’s Tales of the Unexpected Fine White Heights Port. The producer did not note the percentages of the grapes used in this wine. Upon pouring my glass of this pale brassy lemon wine, I noted significant youthful grapey aromatics common from Muscat. There were also faint notes of almond, dried pineapple, honeysuckle, white peach, and ripe pear. This sweet wine had a moderate body and a high level of alcohol, even for a fortified wine (about 19%). The lower level of acid did not significantly reduce the perception of sugar in the wine.  The fruit notes dominated the palate, along with a touch of honeysuckle. All of these fade on the moderate length finish. Depending on the white port, some are marketed as mixers for cocktails. This one, for example, recommends using 1 part port with 2 parts of tonic water (and garnished with a lemon slice and mint leaves) to make a Port and Tonic. White Ports can also be chilled for a refreshing drink on a warm summer day. These marketing strategies are being used to create recognition in the Port category for new clientele. Other than being used as an aperitif, this wine would also nicely pair with charcuterie, aged cheeses, and nuts.