Kotsifali is a red grape variety likely indigenous to the Greek island of Crete. It can be used to produce varietal wines which tend to be pale in color with higher levels of alcohol. It can also be blended with darker colored grapes, such as Syrah or Mandilaria (another local grape variety). The challenge for winemakers is to blend higher quality Kotsifali with a grape that doesn’t mask its light red fruit and herbal aromas. The color of Kotsifali is also not stable, so younger wines give the impression of being significantly older than they actually are. Color is extremely important to consumers so blending with darker grapes is seen as a way to increase sales. Blending with international grape varieties, such as Syrah, can also increase the likelihood a consumer unfamiliar with Kotsifali will purchase a product. Presently, nearly all Kotsifali plantings can be found in Crete, where it is the second most planted grape variety.
This week I drank a 2016 Alexakis Kotsifali (60%) Syrah (40%) blend from Heraklion. Heraklion is located on the eastern side of the island, where a majority of plantings are located. The addition of Syrah makes this wine a deep ruby color. Despite being 7 years old, the inky color doesn’t show any signs of age. Aromas of ripe blackberry, dried red cherry, baking spices, licorice, black plum, and prune create a complex bouquet. Dried fruit is an indicator this wine has likely been aged for some time. On the palate, this full bodied dry, medium alcohol wine has a higher level of plush tannin. The acid is sufficient to balance the pronounced fruit notes and tannins. The blend of fresh ripe fruit and dried fruit indicate this wine has potential to bottle age longer but they also make this wine great to drink now. The dried cherries and prunes linger on the enjoyable finish. This wine would pair well with hearty winter dishes like beef roast, sausage, or stew.
-TheLooseTannin
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