Crémant du Jura is a sparkling wine made using the same method as in Champagne but with grapes approved for use in the appellation of Jura. Jura is a cool climate wine region in the northeast of France. The most commonly used grape varieties are Pinot Noir, Trousseau, Poulsard, and Chardonnay. These grapes must comprise at least 70% of the final wine, though most producers make Crémant with 100% Chardonnay. Producers can also make a rosé style. All of the aforementioned grapes except Chardonnay are used in the making of rosés and they must account for at least 50% of the final wine. Pinot Noir is commonly the sole grape used in rosés. The region’s cool climate makes it ideal for growing grapes used in sparkling wines because they can retain the high levels of acidity that is required in order for the wine to be able to withstand the aging on yeast cells that is a component in the maturation process. By law, these wines must age on the lees for a minimum of 12 months (some producers age longer for more complex wines). Crémant in this region accounts for about 25% of its total wine production. Most producers make a Crémant in addition to their still wines. Making sparkling wines is a good way for producers to use grapes that are grown in pockets that have difficulty ripening fully. Sparkling wines do not require the same level of ripeness or flavor concentration from the grapes that still wines require. Flavor compounds can hinder the secondary fermentation process, which is responsible for the sparkling character.
The wine I drank this week was a non-vintage Bénédicte et Stéphane Tissot Crémant du Jura, AOC. This bottle was a crémant blanc with a blend of Chardonnay (50%), Pinot Noir (40%), Poulsard (5%), and Trousseau (5%). It is classified as a blanc wine because the red grapes are crushed as quickly as possible to avoid extracting color from the skins, resulting in clear juice. Jura has significant variation in the weather with growing seasons. In order to create a more consistent wine each year, producers have a stock of what is called ‘reserve wine’. Reserve wines are fractions set aside during warmer years to help balance the wines during cooler vintages. The use of reserve wines from other vintages results in wines that do not have a vintage indication because the final product has wines from multiple years. This pale lemon wine has persistent bubbles that rise to the surface. There are aromas of biscuits, white grapefruit, lemon peel, yellow pear, ripe green apple, and a wet stone minerality. On the palate, this dry wine has a creamy mousse and a fuller body. The texture is well balanced with a high level of acidity. The label states this wine was disgorged in January 2023, which is an indicator of how fresh the aromas and flavors will be. Disgorgement is the process of removing the dead yeast cells following the secondary fermentation process prior to bottling. This wine has vibrant citrus and tree fruit notes that will fade the longer this wine sits after disgorgement. These flavors linger on the palate for a lengthy finish. Sparkling wines are a great default wine selection if you don’t know what to pair with a meal or appetizers. I also am a strong advocate for pairing them with fried foods like chicken, tempura or deep fried ice cream!
-TheLooseWheel
A Trip Around the World of Wine in 52 Weeks 