February 14th-Madeira

Madeira isn’t just a Portuguese island and Portuguese archipelago, it is also a fortified wine. Madeira is the largest island in the archipelago and the home of Madeira wine production. These volcanic islands are located west of Morocco and north of the Canary Islands. There are mountains in the center of the island that go up to 6100 feet in elevation. The northern part of the island is cool and humid due to the winds coming off the Atlantic. The southern portion of the island is warmer and drier, which can necessitate irrigation. Madeira wines gained popularity during the establishment of British colonies in North America during the 17th and 18th centuries. While the wines were being shipped in the holds of the boats, there was no temperature control. This created a baked or stewed fruit character in the wines by the time they reached port at their destinations. Wines also needed fortification to prevent spoilage during the long trip. Today, there is an emphasis on making Madeira with traditional grape varieties, such as the white grapes Sercial or Malvasia de São Jorge. Wines are made using techniques to create a similar style to those that were shipped across the Atlantic. They can undergo one of two maturation processes. The first is a more rapid maturation process, Estufagem, where the wine is heated to a high temperature (45-50℃) for a short period of time, about 3 months, then allowed to cool prior to being bottled. The other is a slower aging process, Cantiero, where the wine is sealed in a wood vessel then stored in warmer locations around the warehouse or in the sun where they can reach temperatures ranging from 25-40℃. These vessels will then be moved to cooler locations for prolonged aging. Some Madeira can be aged for over 20 years prior to release. 

This week, I drank a Broadbent 10 year old Sercial Madeira. Age indications for Madeira are similar to those of Port wines. They reflect the style of the wine, not the actual age of the wine. The assigned age indication is verified by a tasting panel from the island regulatory agency. Sercial is used to make the driest versions of Madeira but they will still contain some sweetness. It can be grown in the cooler, north island vineyards or in the warmer, south island locations because it requires a longer growing season to fully ripen. This wine is a pale amber color due to the long aging process and the heat it was exposed to. This wine has aromas of toasted black walnut, caramel, candied lemon peel, toffee, and dark chocolate. This medium bodied off-dry wine is well balanced with a refreshing acidity. It has a high level of alcohol, even for a fortified wine. Candied lemon is predominant on the front palate then gives way to caramel, toffee and dark chocolate. It then has a long finish that features toasted black walnuts. This wine would pair well with a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, light seafood dishes (such as a nut crusted sole), green salad with a vinaigrette dressing or even a steak topped with caramelized onions. 

-TheLooseTannin

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