Plavac Mali (‘little blue’) is an ancient indigenous red grape to Dalmation coast in Croatia that is a genetic offspring of last week’s grape, Tridibag (Zinfandel). It is the most popular red grape in Croatia and used to make robust wines. The grapes of Plavac Mali are small, thick skinned berries. The skin contains tannin and color, which can be extracted into the wine. The grapes also are capable of high sugar accumulation, which will ferment into a high level of alcohol. Winemakers can also opt to stop fermentation early to create a final wine that has a minimal level of sweetness. This residual sugar can help offset the intense tannins. These grapes also must be kept on the vine until the tannins are ripe. If the tannins are unripe at harvest, they can give an astringent green flavor to the final wine. Growers must also be careful to not leave the grapes on the vine too long or the acid level will drop and result in a flabby unbalanced wine. The overripe grapes can also be used for the production of dessert wine. The grapes are commonly grown on steep, sandy terraced slopes that overlook the Adriatic Sea. The Adriatic provides temperature moderation that can slow the ripening and create more complex wines.
This week, I drank a 2022 Bura Estate Plavac Mali from the Peljesac Peninsula of the Dalmation coast. The Bura family has a very extensive history in Croatian winemaking, extending a reported sixteen generations, over more than 600 years! This medium ruby wine had light fruity aromas of red cherry, cranberry, red and black currant, chalky minerality, plum, chocolate and violets. On the palate, this dry, medium bodied and medium alcohol wine had well integrated soft, ripe tannins and an acidity that balanced the array of fresh ripe red fruits. Its complexity was increased by the non-fruit notes of chalk, chocolate, and floral components that fade on the medium length finish. This was a fun and lighter red wine that could easily be lightly chilled for a nice summer afternoon. I paired it with a grilled steak au poivre but it would be fantastic with grilled tuna or other Mediterranean fish, lamb, or aged cheeses. It was also delightful with a Lindor 70% dark chocolate truffle!
-TheLooseTannin
A Trip Around the World of Wine in 52 Weeks 