Divico is a hybrid red grape created from two lesser known grape varieties. It was developed in Switzerland in 1997 as a PIWI grape with the goal of creating a red grape having a high level of resistance to fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew and gray rot, capable of making high quality red wines. Divico is known for its deep color and high level of smooth tannins. It can be used in blends or varietal wines. The inky color can make it a valuable blending component with other, lighter grapes. There are plantings of Divico in England, Switzerland, and Germany. Being able to produce a wine with ripe tannins in a cool climate while also being able to greatly limit the use of treatments in the vineyard makes a great option for growers. It reduces the production costs and provides a unique product for the winery portfolio. One of the complaints I’ve seen in reading about this grape is that the coloring can be too intense if over extracted in the cellar. The grapes can also be harvested too early, resulting in excessive acidity. It seems that many producers are still trying to perfect vinification and winemaking with this grape.
My final stop when wine tasting in Kent was at Warehorne Vineyard. This winery planted vines and established themselves in 2020. They had their first harvest in 2022. They have the largest amount of Divico planted, which they invested a considerable amount in. While tasting, I had a 2023 Divico. This wine was a deep, inky purple that stained the bowl of my glass. It had moderate intensity aromas of menthol, berry bramble, blueberry, blackberry, black raspberry, dark chocolate and clay. On the palate, this dry wine had sufficient levels of acid to balance the concentrated fruit and was fuller bodied. The tannins were smooth and enough to add texture without being overwhelming. The fruit notes gave way to a subtle dark chocolate note on the long finish. While writing this, I was quite surprised at the age of the vines because the wine didn’t drink like the vines were so young. I would be excited to go back and try them again in 10 years to see how they evolve in the future.
-TheLooseTannin
A Trip Around the World of Wine in 52 Weeks 