June 11th-Ortega

Ortega is a cross between white grapes Müller-Thurgau and Siegerrebe that was created in Germany in 1948. It ripens very early so it is an ideal grape to grow in cooler climates that struggle to ripen other grape varieties on a consistent basis. It does bud early, which can put it at risk of damage from spring frosts. Just like Bacchus, most plantings are in Rheinhessen, Germany. There is also a sizable amount of plantings in the Pfalz region of Germany. In England, Biddenden Vineyards was an early adopter of Ortega. Biddenden was established in 1969 and was the first vineyard in Kent. They continue to be family owned and are currently operated by their second and third generations. The land was originally an apple orchard but the matriarch, Joyce Barnes, decided to transition the land to vineyards after watching a program on the BBC about English vineyards being replanted. Chapel Down, a much larger producer in Kent, also has plantings of Ortega and are known for their barrel-aged iteration. 

On my recent travels, I stopped at Biddenden Vineyards and tasted their lineup of Ortega. They offered three different styles during my visit. There was a 2022 Chapter 55 limited edition version with grapes from a selected block (#1), a 2023 Ortega that had more intense aromatics (#2), and a 2023 with less aromatic fruit (#3). They were all pale lemon in color. Number 2 and 3 displayed floral notes and riper stone and melon fruits while #1 was more vegetal, herbal, with green apple and lemon pith. All three had a moderate level of acid and were noted as being dry but there was a perceptible amount of residual sugar in #3. Number 2 and 3 were low in alcohol, but #1 was more moderate. They all had a moderate to full body. Number 3 had the longest finish. These were all great wines and interesting to try them side by side to see the variation between them. Number 3 would be a great aperitif as well as pair well with seafood, lighter fish and the touch of sweetness would make a great compliment to spicy foods like Thai or Indian cuisine. Numbers 1 and 2 would also be great with seafood and light fish. If you happen to be in Kent, I recommend stopping in for a tasting!

-TheLooseTannin