Encruzado is a rare white grape variety that is mainly grown in, and likely indigenous to, the Dão region of central Portugal. It is easy to grow and ripen but can lose its fresh, delicate character if the juice gets exposed to oxygen once the grapes are harvested until the wine is bottled. If oxidation is prevented, the resulting wine has potential to be high quality and capable of bottle aging. It can also be matured in oak (as long as the oak has tight grains) prior to bottling to increase complexity. Some believe Encruzado is the highest quality white grape being grown in Portugal and liken the best to the white wines of Burgundy. Encruzado can be used in blends with other white grapes or can be used to produce varietal wines. Plantings of Encruzado are increasing in Dão as it becomes more well known. Interestingly, some say the quality of the grape suffers if grown outside of the Dão region. For this reason, the only significant plantings are in the Dão DOC.
While I was in London, I had a glass of 2022 Casa de Passarella ‘Somontes’ Colheita Branco from the Dão DOC. This wine was a blend of 60% Encruzado, 20% Malvasia and 20% Verdelho. It was pale lemon in color with touches of light green around the rim. It had aromas of lemon peel, white grapefruit, pineapple, fresh cut grass, and honeysuckle. The Dão region has significant amounts of pine trees also so aromas of pine resin are common, but not noted in the glass I had. On the palate, this dry wine had a full body that was balanced with a bright acidity. The citrus and floral notes persisted on the long finish. This wine was refreshing for an aperitif but would also pair well with salads, lighter meats, seafood or creamy cheeses.
-TheLooseTannin
A Trip Around the World of Wine in 52 Weeks 