Rkatsiteli is a native ancient white grape to the Republic of Georgia. Georgia has a long history of winemaking, dating back to at least 8000 years. Winemaking tools have been located that indicate large scale production was taking place thousands of years ago. Georgia is also known for its use of qvevri. These are clay pots used to age wine. The pots are sealed and placed in the ground for natural temperature regulation. Qvevri wines were the original orange wines that have become popular recently. Most producers that are producing these more trendy wines use different methods to achieve the desired color and character. Rkatsiteli is the most widely planted grape throughout Georgia. Wine production in Georgia has waxed and waned over the years but waned significantly when Georgia was part of the Soviet Union under the control of Mikel Gorbachev. Gorbachev instigated vine pull schemes (as part of his anti alcohol campaign) to pull up grape vines around what is territory of Georgia. Upon gaining their freedom in 1991, vines were replanted and the industry has been rebuilding. In recent years, the US wine market has been incrementally growing in importance for Georgian wine exports.
This week I drank a 2022 Mildiani Rkatsiteli from the Kakheti region in eastern Georgia. The Mildiani Family Winery was founded in 1991 by the 4 Mildiani brothers. This wine is a pale lemon color with pronounced aromas of white grapefruit, lemon peel, chalk, green apple, jasmine flowers, and orange blossoms. On this palate, the sharp acidity balances the fuller body in this dry wine. The citrus and floral notes are brightened by the high acidity and they fade slowly on the long finish. This is a refreshing wine for a warm spring or summer afternoon. It would pair well with seafood, shellfish and creamy cheeses. It would also be a nice complement to light salads.
-TheLooseTannin
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