
I have previously discussed the white grape Pedro Ximenex on two occasions. The most traditional version was part of Sherry week back in December 2020, then a dry iteration earlier this year on Feb 28th. I wanted to discuss it again to show the variation between bottles of wine made by the same grape. This is one reason why I recommend always tasting a wine if given the opportunity instead of automatically ruling it out based on past experience. This week, I found a wine made in a similar manner to the syrupy sweet traditional sherry product, but without the oxidation it is exposed to during the extended barrel aging. During harvest, just like the oxidative version, the grapes are laid on mats to dry in the sunlight. This process concentrates the sugars, acids and flavor compounds. This drying process transforms 1000 kg of grapes into a mere 300 kg of raisins. The raisins are then pressed into an extremely concentrated juice. The wine is fermented to a total alcohol content of 13%, when the fermentation is stopped by cooling it down until the environment is too cold for the yeast to continue to ferment. This leaves a substantial amount of residual sugar. The wine is filtered to remove the yeast and bottled, unlike the oxidative version that goes into barrels for extended periods of aging. This version has fresher aromas and flavors (tree and stone fruits) compared to those of the oxidative version, which are usually coffee, chocolate, toffee, and raisins.
This week I drank a 2023 Ximenéz-Spínola Delicado Pedro Ximenez. This wine is a deep gold color and coats the glass when swirled. The oxidative version is a much darker color, similar to motor oil or the residue from molasses. It has aromas of candied peaches, apricots, Meyer lemon peel, golden raisins, honey, nutmeg, mandarin orange, almond, honeysuckle, and apple pie filling. On the palate, this sweet, full bodied wine is very well balanced by a moderate level of acidity. Even though this wine has 13% alcohol, it is subtle. The fruit notes are pronounced and fresh. The fruit character is persistent from start to finish with notes of peachy candy lingering on the finish. I paired this wine with some Point Reyes blue cheese (I don’t normally like blue cheese but found this one recently and it is light enough for me to enjoy) and some German lebkuchen (gingerbread). This wine makes a great digestive following dinner or just as a lovely nightcap! I might even consider replacing dinner with a glass of this and some cheese! It is ready to drink now but can also be bottle aged for a very long time!
-TheLooseTannin