Grillo and Cataratto are both indigenous white grapes to Sicily that I have discussed previously (June 8th and 15th 2022). This week’s wine is a blend of these two grape varieties but also contains about 10% of other local grapes. The winemaker estimates that about 5% are unknown aromatic varieties. The grapes for this wine are grown in an area that has a significant amount of naturally occurring sulfur in the soils because of local sulfur mines that were active long ago. Cataratto is a parent grape of Grillo. They are both vigorous varieties that produce high yields. The wines made from Grillo are often more complex than Cataratto,but both have been used in the production of fortified and dessert wines, like Marsala. Following phylloxera, the plantings of Cataratto were largely replaced by Grillo but Cataratto still has the most land under vine in Sicily.
This week’s wine is a 2023 Guiseppe Cipolla ‘Solfare’ from Sicily. The name of the wine is due to the aforementioned sulfuric soils. This wine is a deep lemon yellow with amber highlights. It has aromas of honeysuckle, gardenia, white rose, meyer lemon, starfruit and white peach. The full body of this dry wine is balanced by a bright acidity. The pronounced flavors are complemented by the rich body. The moderate to high level of alcohol also contributes to the full body but is well integrated. The fruit and floral notes are joined by a salinity on the palate that accentuates the fruit, which linger on an extended finish. This wine is a great wintertime white that would pair great with a bowl of alfredo, soft cheeses, or a white fish with butter sauce.
-TheLooseTannin
A Trip Around the World of Wine in 52 Weeks 