Cortese is the white grape used in the production of Gavi or Cortese di Gavi DOCG wines in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy. Gavi is usually a light bodied still wine with moderately intense aromas of citrus and bright acidity. It is commonly paired with seafood that is caught in the towns on the Ligurian Sea. If vines are not well maintained, they can grow vigorously. During its peak popularity in the 1980s, many of the wines produced were simple and lacked character. The reputation it gained as a result of these wines, has allowed other white wines from the area, such as Arneis and Moscato d’Asti, to increase in popularity. The acidity and delicate aromas make it a great option for the production of sparkling wines. The acidity also allows it to be made into a balanced sweet wine. This acidity can be harsh if grapes are grown in areas with poor sun exposure or in cooler vintages.
This week, I drank a Villa Sparina Classic Method Brut Gavi. The vines are grown with south and southeastern exposure in the hills around the town of Monterotondo. This exposure ensures the grapes get the necessary sunlight to create concentrated, complex wines. This wine is pale lemon with brassy highlights and persistent fine bubbles that rise to the surface. It has aromas of lemon and lime zest, brioche, yogurt and white peach. On the palate, the extended aging of this dry wine creates a full bodied product with fine mousse. This character is well balanced by the bright acidity. The lees contact from the traditional method sparkling wine production results in rich bread notes that contribute to the aforementioned fuller body. I paired this with a heavy breakfast of sausage gravy, biscuits, and scrambled eggs. The acidity balanced the meal and the body matched the weight of the meal. It was also great with a little splash of cassis liqueur, known as a Kir Royale, instead of a mimosa!
-TheLooseTannin
A Trip Around the World of Wine in 52 Weeks 