November 13th-Caiño Blanco and Dona Branca

Caiño Blanco is a white grape indigenous to Galicia, Spain and Portugal. It is often confused with Albariño, the famous white grape of the Galicia region. It is believed to possibly be an offspring of Albariño. Dona Branca is another white grape from Portugal. Its name translates to ‘white lady’ and is said to be named for Queen Branca de Borbón. She was married to King Pedro ‘The Cruel’ in the mid 14th century when she was 14 years old. The Dona Branca name is commonly used for other grapes that have no relation. It is grown in significant quantities in the Spanish regions of Valdeorras, Ribeira Sacra, and Monterrei. It can be used to make blended or varietal wines. Caiño Blanco was near extinction in the 20th century. Its desirability was lessened by the success of Albariño and another white grape, Godello. These grapes were not only more popular, but also easier to grow. Caiño Blanco is susceptible to fungal disease, which is problematic in a region known for its humid maritime climate.  Just like we’ve heard numerous times before, some local winemakers wanted to continue the tradition of the native grape. Producers continue to experiment with production methods but it can be used for varietal or blended wines. 

This week, I drank a 2021 Envinate Misturado de Abeleda from Ribeira Sacra. This wine was a blend of many regional grapes, both red and white. The red grapes combine for about 65% of the blend and include Mencia, Brancellao, Alicante Bouschet, Mouraton and Gran Negro. The remaining 35% are white grapes and includes Godello, Torrontes, Treixadura, Albariño, Caiño Blanco, and Doña Branca. The grapes were grown on 100 year old vines. This wine is a pale ruby with aromas of sour red cherry, black cherry, plum, black pepper, violets, and chalky minerality. This dry wine has light tannins and acidity. The fruit notes have moderate intensity and are balanced well with the moderate level of alcohol. The wine doesn’t linger on the palate for a prolonged period. This wine is an easy sipper and could be served chilled on a warm day. It would pair well with mild cheeses or a red sauced pasta. 

-TheLooseTannin

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