October 23rd-Negramoll

Negramoll is a dark red, thick skinned grape that is grown on Tenerife, one the Spanish Canary Islands. The origin of the grape is unknown but it was determined to be a genetic match to an ancient grape from Andalucia, Spain. As of 2008, according to Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, et al, all plantings of Negramoll in Spain are in the Canary Islands. In addition to the version of Negramoll previously described, there is also a rosado mutation that is a pink skinned grape grown in Tenerife. Wines made with either version of Negramoll are usually blended with other local varieties. The grape is also grown in Portugal, specifically on the island of Madeira, where it goes by the name Tinta Negra Mole. It is the most widely grown grape in Madeira and is used in the production of the fortified wine by the same name.  There are also plantings in Peru where it is distilled and used in the production of the spirit pisco.

This week, I drank a 2021 Envinate La Santa de Ursula from Tenerife. This wine is a blend of 48% Negramoll, 50% Listán Negro, and 2% Listán Blanco. When I was reading about the grapes, I figured this wine would be much darker than it was when I poured it. Instead, it was a lighter ruby color, which was due to the winemaking methods used in its production. The very savory aromas override the red fruit character. There are notes of meat, sweat, iron ore minerality, licorice, red cherry, cranberry, red apple and wild strawberry on the nose. This dry wine has moderate, grippy tannins, low alcohol, and significant acid. Negramoll can lose its acidity quickly during the ripening process. This can result in higher amounts of sugar that can be fermented into alcohol. These grapes are planted on north facing hillsides, which protects them from the intense sun at the low latitude where Tenerife is located and helps retain the acidity while the grapes ripen. The savory notes of this lighter bodied wine dominate on the palate with the subtle red fruits lingering in the background. This wine would pair great with game meats, sausage, aged cheeses and pasta with red sauce. It could also be served slightly chilled. I accidentally chilled it before opening it the first time and while it did blunt the fruit character, the savory notes were still delightful with the umami in the parmesan I snacked on with it.