
Persan is a rare red grape variety that is believed to have originated in Savoie. Some subscribe to other theories on its origin, such as it coming to France from Persia or Cyprus. Persan vines are known for producing ample small bunches of berries. Prior to the European phylloxera outbreak in the late 1800s, Persan was widely planted in Savoie. Today, there are very limited plantings, about 20 acres. The grape is increasing in popularity as growers seek to replant older native grape varieties. It can be used in blends or made to produce varietal wines. In blends, it can add deep color, texture from its tannins and acidity. Persan is the final ancient grape variety in the Ancien Cépages project from Yves Cuilleron.
This week, I had a 2021 Yves Cuilleron Persane. The grape is officially named Persan according to Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson but the wine producer uses the name Persane. The wine is a pale ruby color. There are marked aromas of red pie cherries, cranberries and red currants. On the palate, this dry wine has a high level of ripe tannins, high acidity and substantial body. The bright red fruits are well balanced with the acidity. The flavors cling to the palate and slowly fade. This wine is fairly simple but enjoyable. It could be served slightly chilled on a warm summer day with a cheese plate. While tasting this wine, it was clear to see it lacked complexity and would be a good blending grape. There are other iterations with more depth from different producers. These versions can be capable of further bottle aging but the bottle I had would be best consumed while younger.
-TheLooseTannin