Dureza is a red grape variety indigenous to northern Rhone. Dureza is a nearly extinct grape that is a genetic parent of Syrah. The other parent grape of Syrah is Mondeuse Blanche, a white mutation of Mondeuse Noir. Mondeuse, both noir and blanche, are indigenous to the Savoie region of southeastern France. Mondeuse Blanche still has some limited plantings in Savoie. According to Jancis Robinson’s book ‘Wine Grapes’, Mondeuse Blanche wines ‘are not very exciting, generally soft with relatively high alcohol’. Dureza is one of the grapes included in the Anciens Cépages project by Yves Cuilleron. It can be difficult to cultivate due to its susceptibility to fungal disease.
The wine I had was a 2021 Dureza from Yves Cuilleron Anciens Cépages project. This wine was a blend of Dureza and Mondeuse Blanche in unspecified proportions. It is a pale ruby color with aromas of sweet red cherries, pie cherries, black cherries, blackberry, black pepper, sweat, leather and meat. These non-fruit notes provide a rustic character to the wine, which is a standard feature for Dureza and can be common in Syrah also. This wine has a higher level of acid aid in balancing the ripe tannins and medium level of alcohol. These structural components create a wine with a moderate level of texture. The bright fruit notes dominate the front palate then acquiesce to the non fruit elements on the longer finish. This wine is drinking well now but can also be stored to bottle age for a few years. It would pair well with anything Syrah would pair with, such as hamburgers (or portobello burgers), game meats, barbecued meats and hard cheeses.
-TheLooseTannin
A Trip Around the World of Wine in 52 Weeks 