Arbane, or Crénillat as it is known in the Gier Valley in Loire, is an ancient white grape that has very limited plantings remaining. The majority of the total 1 hectare of plantings are in Champagne. A grower in Rhone has used DNA from old vines for the region to re-establish limited plantings of some historic grape varieties. The Anciens Cépages project was created by Yves Cuilleron to cultivate these vines to prevent them from being lost forever. It also gives oenophiles the opportunity to sample wines made from precursor grapes of varieties we know today. Arbane has garnered some recognition because of the highly sought after rare champagne from Famille Moutard using 100% Arbane. The century old vines used for the Famille Moutard wine are descendants of the clone used in the production of the Anciens Cépages still wine. Over the next few weeks, I will discuss other grapes that I had the opportunity to taste from the Anciens Cépages project.
This week I drank a 2022 Yves Cuilleron Crénillat. This pale lemon wine has complex aromas of lemon, grapefruit, mild thimbleberry, grapefruit pith, white peach, salinity, and wet stone. Crénillat is a dry refreshing wine with marked acidity, medium body and alcohol. This wine is lighter than many other white wines from the northern Rhone, such as those based on Viognier and Roussanne. The flavors in this wine continue on the moderate length finish. The fruit and non fruit character, combined with the aforementioned acidity are sufficient enough to carry the wine through a significant bottle aging period. This wine would pair well with a cheese plate, seafood or fish tacos on a nice summer day.
-TheLooseTannin
A Trip Around the World of Wine in 52 Weeks 