Merseguera (mer-see-gwerah) is a white grape that likely originates in Valencia, Spain. It primarily produces low intensity wines and is commonly blended with more interesting grape varieties, such as Malvasia. It can also be used to make sweet wines due to its lack of overt character. It is also planted in the regions of Murcia and Castilla-La Mancha. Merseguera is well suited to grow in these areas because it is drought resistant and can grow in poor soils. Valencia does allow for irrigation but many vines are dry farmed. Dry farming means that the vines only receive the naturally occurring rainfall for their water supply. Some producers are using these newer viticulture techniques and experimenting with different winemaking methods to create higher quality wines. Despite this, it is still widely regarded as an underwhelming grape with limited exports, mainly consumed by locals and tourists. A quick google search of the grape might be sufficient to dissuade a consumer from trying it, but that never stops me!
This week, I drank a 2019 Baldovar 923 ‘Cañada París’ Merseguera. In 2016, the team at the winery went out in search to find a location to recover Merseguera and found their home in the village of Baldovar, in the municipality of Alpuente. Baldovar is located at an elevation of 923m. As part of the restoration project, they also renovated the old wine cooperative that was built in 1958. The cooperative had been left abandoned for 10 years when Baldovar 923 took it over. This wine is a pale lemon color with fresh fruit aromas of white pear, white grapefruit, lemon peel, chalk, saline, and white peach. This dry wine has a bright acidity, moderate level of alcohol, and full body. On the palate, a touch of honeysuckle combined with the citrus and tree fruit notes, and a briny salinity. These flavors slowly tapered off the palate in unison on a long finish with a hint of melted snow. I did not have high hopes after reading about this grape but the capability of this winery to grow and produce a wine that showcases the potential of this grape is impressive. This wine would pair great with seafood like shrimp with garlic (gambas al ajillo), sushi, grilled vegetables, and acidic cheeses like feta or goat cheese.
-TheLooseTannin
A Trip Around the World of Wine in 52 Weeks 