Tannat is a highly tannic, deeply colored red grape likely indigenous to the region of Madiran in southwestern France. The name Tannat translates to ‘colored like tan’ in the local dialect, Béarn. This moniker is believed to be tied to the dark berry color. The tannin content could also be partly responsible for the name. Tannat is still grown in Madiran AOC but it is also the national grape of Uruguay. French immigrants from the Basque region brought Tannat to Uruguay during the mid 19th century. It was imported and planted around the city of Salto by Pascal Harriague, and became known as Harriague in Uruguay. To this day, it can go by both names, but more commonly known as Tannat. It is the most widely planted grape in Uruguay, accounting for almost 25% of plantings. Growing the grape in the right climate is essential to ensure the full ripeness of the tannins and high level of anthocyanins (the pigmentation). Tannat is often used as a blending component with other red grapes. In the US, Tannat is grown in relatively small amounts in California. Specifically, Tablas Creek Winery in Paso Robles is a noted early adopter of the variety.
This week, I drank a 2019 Lone Madrone The Dodd from Paso Robles. This wine is a blend of Tannat (49%), Petit Verdot (29%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (22%). Neil Collins, the winemaker and founder of Lone Madrone, is also the winemaker and vineyard manager at Tablas Creek. This wine is a deep ruby that lightly stains the bowl of my glass when swirled. The legs slowly creep back to the surface of my wine. There are aromas of red, black and blue fruits such as cranberry sauce, fresh blackberry, fresh blueberry, black raspberry, and prune along with rose petals, vanilla, herbs and cigar. Hints of white peppercorn and dark chocolate are also apparent. On the palate, this dry wine has plush, smooth tannins that reminded me of crushed velvet with my first few sips. The alcohol is listed at 13.5% but is likely a touch higher. The alcohol content is well balanced by the intense fruit notes and a significant level of acid. This wine lingers on the palate before slowly dissipating. With the high level of tannin, complex and intense flavor profile, and the acidity, this wine would be capable of being bottle aged for a while if left in a wine cellar. It is also drinking very well now for those of us that don’t always want to wait!. It would pair very well with a roast with a higher fat content, barbecued meats, charcuterie, and stronger cheeses. The first time I had Tannat, it was paired with Cassoulet, a French casserole made with meats and beans from the countryside. The fats in Cassoulet can soften the texture of Tannat, making it more approachable, and a wonderful pairing.
-TheLooseTannin
A Trip Around the World of Wine in 52 Weeks 