
Moschofilero (mow-sko-FEEL-err-oh) is a white indigenous Greek grape variety likely from the Peloponnese peninsula. It is part of a group of grape clones known as the Fileri, which all have the same genetic profile. The group of grapes has a long history with their earliest mention dating back to the early 17th century. Moschofilero is the most aromatic of the grapes in the family. In the vineyard, there is commonly a mixture of the Fileri family grapes which are used to create a Fileri field blend in the final wine. More recently established vineyards have planted the individual clones in their own separate rows or vineyard blocks. Moschofilero is used to make varietal wines but can be used in the production of sparkling and sweet wines. It is planted at around 700m above sea level in Martinia PDO. Wine law requires wines from Martinia PDO to be at least 85% Moschofilero, but in practice, most are 100%. Martinia is a plateau with a valley floor and some vines stretching into foothills of surrounding mountains. This creates a cool mediterranean to continental climate in which some vintages struggle to ripen. This makes grapes that are ideal for making sparkling wine because they have higher levels of acid. If grown outside of Mantineia, Moschofilero can be blended with other native grape varieties.
The wine I chose to drink this week was a 2019 Mister Helios from Kalogris Winery in Mantinia PDO, which is 100% Moschofilero. The grapes for this wine were grown organically at 670m. The vines are between 35-40+ years old. The Kalogris family specializes in the production of Moschofilero based wines. This was the first organic and natural Moschofilero imported into the US. This wine is a pale lemon color with slight turbidity. The turbidity is the result of the natural winemaking process. This wine is not fined or filtered, which is a choice the winemaker makes. Most large production wines are fined and filtered to create the crisp clean color that consumers expect when purchasing wines. This wine has aromas of honeysuckle, jasmine, kaffir lime leaves, white grapefruit, and white peach. On the palate, this dry wine had a bright acidity. The texture was fuller than anticipated. This wine was spent a few months on the dead yeast cells, lees, to help increase body. There was also a slight sparkling nature which increased the perceived texture. The alcohol level was on the lower end of the medium range. The floral notes were slightly more dominant than the fruit notes on the palate. The finish of this wine was moderate in length. This wine was refreshing and delicious. It would pair well with fresh seafood, a lox and cream cheese bagel, feta, olives, or greek salad.
-TheLooseTannin