I last discussed Assyrtiko April 21st, 2021 but decided to return to it this week partly because it’s a favorite grape variety of mine and partly because this is a little different. Assyrtiko gained attention for the fresh citrus, stone and tropical fruit flavors as well as its bright acidity. These wines were primarily grown in Santorini but following its rise in popularity, plantings began being propagated on mainland Greece also. Assyrtiko has bucked some of the major obstacles Greek wines face such as, difficult to pronounce names and unknown grapes are difficult to market. These are a couple factors that make it difficult to gain a foothold in the marketplace. Greece has over 300 indigenous grape varieties, of which, a vast majority remain obscure to most people outside of the country. There have been trends to plant international grape varieties that are more household names, such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. These can be made into varietal wines or blended with local grape varieties to increase comfort levels in trying lesser known grapes, such as blending Xinomavro with Merlot or Assyrtiko with Sauvignon Blanc. Many producers remain committed to the vinification of local wine varieties.
The wine I selected is from the Mylonas Winery, owned by the Mylonas brothers in Attica, Greece. The brothers took the winery over from their father after one, Stamatis, had completed his studies in oenology and chemistry. When Stamatis was growing grapes he had purchased for the production of rosé, he noticed some Assyrtiko had made their way into the plantings. He enjoyed them so much, he traveled to Santorini to purchase more cuttings. These vines are now over 20 years old, still youthful but well established.
This week, I drank a 2022 Mylonas Winery Assyrtiko. This wine is a pale lemon color. The aromas of bread dough, lemon peel, white grapefruit, key lime, and gardenias are evident on the nose. On the palate, there is a slight sparkling character for this dry wine. The crisp acidity is balanced with an increased texture from time spent on lees with frequent stirring. The aromas are also noted in the mouth with the addition of a steely minerality. This wine has a moderate level of alcohol with a medium long finish. This wine could bottle age in a cellar for a few years. It would pair well with spaghetti with mizithra, avgolemono soup, fettuccine alfredo or a seafood chowder.
-TheLooseTannin
A Trip Around the World of Wine in 52 Weeks 