Bellone is a vigorously growing white grape likely indigenous to the Lazio region of central Italy, near Rome. It is thought that its first historical mention was from Pliny the Elder in the 1st century, where it went by the name Uva Pantastica. Vigorous grape varieties often lack concentrated flavors if specific steps are not taken in the vineyard. Bellone can either be made into a varietal wine or used in blends. The wines it makes are fresh and light, which can be overridden when added to stronger grape varieties in blends. It can also have a bitter finish. Many winemakers offset this with a small amount of residual sugar. Residual sugar can be accomplished in a few ways. Commonly it is achieved by cooling wine during the fermentation process before the wine is fermented completely dry, meaning some sugar remains. The cooling makes the yeast go dormant. The yeast is then filtered out to prevent a secondary fermentation. On occasion, Bellone grapes are left on the vine to harvest later. This process allows for greater sugar accumulation and concentrates flavors. Some grapes retain enough acid to balance the increased sugar levels and it appears Bellone falls into this category.
This week, I drank a 2021 Casale Del Giglio Bellone from Lazio IGT. According to the producer, the yields were controlled to create the best version of Bellone. The grapes were grown just beyond the coastal town of Anzio. The maritime influence provides cooling winds to aid in the preservation of acid. The winds also lead to water loss in the grapes. Bellone does have thick skins which can help mitigate this effect, but the winds still help concentrate the flavors. This wine has a medium lemon color and aromas of brioche, wet stone, white grapefruit, dried herbs, peaches, pineapple, sea salt and gardenia. On the palate, this wine has a sharp acidity that is very well balanced with a minimal touch of sweetness. It has a moderate level of alcohol and fuller bodied texture. The pronounced flavors of honeysuckle, grapefruit, wet stone, brioche, pineapple, peaches, sea salt, dried herbs, and gardenias all intermingle on the palate. These notes slowly fade on the extended finish. This wine is surprisingly complex and concentrated. This wine would be fantastic if paired with white fish or seafood.
-TheLooseTannin
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