Folle Blanche is a white grape variety believed to be indigenous to southwestern France. Its first mentions date back to the late 17th century. Traditionally, it has been used for the production of cognac and armagnac, brandies made using distillation methods. It is known for its high yielding nature, neutral flavor, and enamel-removing acidity. Plantings of the grape have plummeted since the 1950’s when it accounted for nearly 40,000 acres. At last count, in 2008, that decreased to a mere 1,800. It was once planted widely in south west France where there was convenient access to ports, making shipping Brandy easy. Now most plantings are found in the Loire Valley in northwestern France. In Pays Nantais, it is labeled under the name Gros Plant. A significant reason the grape has fallen out of favor is because of its susceptibility to fungal diseases, which can greatly reduce yields. In many parts, plantings were replaced with other varieties that are less disease prone.
This week, I chose to drink a bottle of 2021 Château de la Jousselinière Perle Bleue made with 100% Folle Blanche. This is a Gros Plant du Pays Nantais AOP. To reduce the searing acidity, it is made ‘sur lie’. Sur Lie is common with Muscadet, another highly acidic grape grown in the Pays Nantais region of the Loire Valley. Pay Nantais is on the Atlantic Ocean which provides significant cooling effects from the maritime influences. This cooling helps grapes retain their natural acidities. Sur lie aging is the process of leaving wine on the lees (dead yeast cells) during the maturation process after fermentation is complete. This is done to impart a rounder texture and soften their jaw clenching acidity. This wine is a pale lemon color that had lots of tiny bubbles that appeared on the bowl of the glass (carbon dioxide from the sur lie process). The bright citrus aromas of lemon peel, orange blossom, and white grapefruit mingled with slightly unripe pineapple and stale bread. This dry wine had low alcohol and mouth watering acidity. Low sugar levels, low alcohol and high acid can combine to create a watery, uninteresting wine. In this case, all were balanced by the enhanced body from the sur lie aging process. The aforementioned aromas translated onto the palate of this wine and combined with hints of sea salt and stoney minerality. These flavors all slowly faded away on a long finish. This wine displays lots of fresh fruit character that will not improve over time and should be drunk now. It would pair well with fresh shellfish, like the oyster on the label!
-TheLooseTannin
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