
Inzolia is a white grape indigenous to the island of Sicily but also goes by Ansonica in the region of Tuscany. It was first mentioned in writings in the 16th century where it is said to have spread to Sardinia then to the islands of Elba and Giglio (located just off the coast of western Italy between Livorno and Rome). In Sicily, Inzolia can be used in blended wines or in the production of the fortified wine Marsala. When grown in Tuscany, it is commonly made into a varietal wine. The best representations of the grape have a nutty character and fresh acidity. It is known to be a great aperitif wine due to its crowd pleasing characteristics.
The wine I selected this week is a 2018 Bibi Graetz Testamatta Bianco. The winery produces two wines under the name Testamatta, a rosso and a bianco. Testamatta translates to ‘crazy head’ in Italian, a way to describe the passion and creativity of abstract artist and winemaker Bibi. This wine was 100% Ansonica from Giglio, an island where Bibi spent time as a child. The grapes were grown on well-draining granite and sandy soils on vines up to 100 years old. This wine was a medium gold color and tiny bubbles collected around the base of the glass while I let it sit for a few minutes. This wine had pronounced aromatics of candied lemon peel, almonds, lemon zest, ripe yellow pear and ripe green apple. This dry wine had a moderate level of alcohol. The acidity was refreshing for a fuller bodied white wine. The palate was a complex blend of honeysuckle, toasted almonds, lemon curd, lemon peel, and lightly baked green apples, all with touches of minerality and salinity. These notes of lemon and apple lingered on the prolonged finish. This wine is drinking very well now but could continue to age and evolve. While drinking this, I wished for a bowl of olive walnut pasta, steamed artichokes with garlic lemon aioli, or pasta carbonara.
-TheLooseTannin