Mondeuse is a red grape indigenous to the Savoie region of eastern France. It is sometimes known as Mondeuse Noire to differentiate it from Mondeuse Blanche. Mondeuse Blanche was long considered to be a white mutation of Mondeuse Noire but this theory was proven incorrect through genetic testing. It was also determined that the Noire iteration was either an offspring or the parent of Blanche. Whichever it is, Mondeuse Noire has a close relation to Syrah, being either its grandparent or half sibling. To make the naming more confusing, in California, Mondeuse Noire was given the name Refosco Dal Peduncolo Rosso until it was determined Refosco was its own unique variety. Mondeuse is primarily grown in France but there are also plantings in Switzerland, California and Australia. The first time I sampled the variety, it was being propagated in the Applegate region of southern Oregon at Plaisance Ranch. Mondeuse is known for creating aromatic wines with rich color and significant tannins.
This week, I tasted a 2021 Domaine de L’Idylle Mondeuse from Savoie, AOC. The vineyards are grown on steep slopes that face the French Alps. The label features a seashell, a nod to the limestone and clay soil where the grapes are grown. This wine was a medium purple that left a residual pink tint in the glass as I swirled it. Aromas of chalky minerality along with tart red cherries, ripe cranberries, white pepper and fresh tarragon were evident with little effort. On the palate, this medium bodied dry wine had minimal alcohol but a coy acidity that presented itself on the finish, triggering my salivary glands to rinse my mouth. The tannins were grippy without being abrasive. The bright red fruit was prominent while the white pepper, herbal notes and chalkiness were more evident on the extended finish. This was a bright and refreshing red wine that still had significant character. It would pair well with many types of meat, including grilled pork, grilled chicken, lamb shank, smoked sausage or even salisbury steak. It could also be paired with acidic vegetarian dishes like ratatouille. It’s a great wine to keep on hand year round.
-TheLooseTannin
A Trip Around the World of Wine in 52 Weeks 